Start on jug rail around the corner from Creamy. Traverse right into same top out.

Dreamy

Creamy

Sledgehammer

Otimojoginkbrute

The Maiden

Lucky the Wonder-Poodle

[Redacted]

Lifestyles of the Steep and Heinous

Start on a Jug and go straight up to spicy topout.

Traverse the horizontal crack up and left starting on crimp rail.

Very unique and entertaining movement on an overhanging arete. If you enjoy pinches, heel hooks, compression, and flexing biceps, this climb hits the nail on the head. 

  Start sitting, hugging the arete with a good right hand pinch and a pretty poor left hand pinch on the face. Make a lefthand move up to a slopey hueco and work into the opposing sidepull crimps. Clever technique should lead you to the marquee move maneuvering through the large, made to order, sledgehammer pinch. From here, span out left to a deep jug, and exit onto the slab.

Start sitting sitting on a right facing hold. Trend slightly right aiming for great jugs that set you up for a good top out 

Amazing rock and features combined with a low crux make this a must do highball. In many areas this would be a 3-5 bolt sport climb. 

  Move up the short wall to the roof and reach over. use a heal to turn the lip, this in itself is getting to be kind of high. Now cruise up the 25 foot tall gorgeous wall of big huecos.

Great diversity on a boulder problem. Great problem but can be painful, tape might help for the start. 

  Start out with a steep hands to cups crack. Then motor across the horizontal roof with some long reaches on pretty good holds. Finally fight through the bulge at the top on positive crimps. 

  Each section might be about V4 but by the time you get to the end you are spent.

A nice V8 version of a "step-off" Hueco roof climb (eg Baby Martini, Flower Power, etc). 

This is a boulder choked gully high on East Mountain above and right of the end of Comanche Canyon. The area has a goof bit of diversity, from easy to about V8 and short to quite tall. Most problems in this area are going to be well shaded and sheltered from the wind. 

  Classics include the highball, The Maiden and the head height roof with a little of everything, Beer Pizza and a Three Foot Toothless Girl.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Maiden Gully