The "star" of Starbuck Right, this is the unmistakeable large right-facing corner that ends at a roof near the top. Bon appetite!   Climb the inside corner, through its mossy, often wet start, up around a few overhangs to a tenuous stance at a bulging face about 15' below the roof. Tricky placements protect intricate stemming to a squat stance under the roof; from there move left, around the ceiling and out onto the face. Climb directly up to a fixed, two-bolt anchor.

Gemini

Ben to the Stars

Andromeda

Black Holes Matter

O'Ryan's Belt

Illegal Aliens

Gamma Ray Arete

Starstruck

Quantum Entanglement

Starboard Tack

This route follows the outside corner of the large, right-facing corner (Gemini). Excellent face moves. Difficult start.   Climb up slab to bolt, then move up (crux) to a good hold on the left. Work back up and right to the edge of the corner, then follow it to the top. Good gear when needed, bolts augment trad placements.   Note that an "uber-direct" start, clinging to the edge of the corner, is quite difficult, probably hard 5.9.

This was a project our good friend Ben tackled some time ago. He took a good fall at the crux, popping his gear and avoiding serious injury through the fortune of a solid bolt a bit lower.   Climb up to the crack 7' right of the large right-facing corner, go up to its end and make easy steps to the bulging wall (bolt). Climb up and right onto the outside corner (key placement, small cam, very tricky and strenuous to get it into the vertical crack correctly. Do NOT trust gear in the shallow horizontal). Pull a big move getting past the bulge to a stance under the overhang. Some interesting but easier moves lead through the overhang via a good crack, to the top ledge.

Discovered while struggling on the neighboring project, this line was good enough to add fixed gear and create a separate line for.   Climb up initial slab at the large V-slot to reach the bottom of the first seam/crack in the bulge. Step right 4' along tenuous holds and stretch big to clip a bolt. Make a hard (crux) move to get through the bulge, clip again, and make another hard move to reach easier ground. Pleasant, milder climbing leads to the top.

Just to the left of Andromeda, climb the slab to seams that become a wider (flared) crack.  Follow this to the top, using the left vertical crack to top out.

Climb up initial slab at the large V-slot to reach the bottom of the first seam/crack in the bulge. Good gear can be had here, but it takes serious skill to get it. A strenuous, sequency stretch leads to a "Thank God" hold, followed by less-intensive, but still demanding climbing that gradually eases off as one ascends to the anchor.

This route follows a strenuous line up and around the right end of the main face. Great climbing above, needs cleanup near the bottom.   A critical pink Tri-Cam placement is the best gear for making the moves around the corner; nothing else we've tried works well in the thin crack above the bolt.   Climb from near the right end of the base up easy slab, protecting in the vegetated crack to the right, to a stance by the right-facing corner beneath an overhang. Clip the bolt and make hard moves up and right, crossing that vital Tri-Cam placement horizontal crack, then swing around onto a tenuous, strenuous stance. A move up eases the burden, and a bit farther a big stance allows good gear for the final overhang move to the anchors.

Difficult crux getting through the bulge. Tape up.   Climb up the bottom slab to an awkward stance below the bulge. Hand to fist jams and a few holds and sidepulls get through the crux. Step up and left to reach a left-facing corner. Climb up it, then move up and right onto the face. Follow the crack/seam as it diminishes, make a couple easy but runout slab moves to reach the top.

Great climb; don't let the wide crack dissuade you from tackling this one...But bring that big cam or two.   Climb up the dual cracks as they undulate up and left, along a slab. One crack runs up to a left-facing corner before ending below an overhang; at that point, step left into the wide, broken crack leading into a chimney. Climb up chimney to a stance below the final, wide, steep crack. (V1) Climb up crack to the top.   V1: reduces the grade to 5.6. Leave the chimney, traversing right out onto a steep face, and mantel onto a sloping ledge right of the wide crack. Climb up and left along a left-rising seam to rejoin the route as it tops out.

It looks like a straight run through the bulge above the left-facing corner is easy enough. It's not.   Climb the slab up and left to a stance just right of the oak tree. Face holds (small gear in pockets) reach the crack and the base of the left-facing corner. Move up the corner a step or two, find gear, then make a very committing move around right and up. Less difficult, but enjoyable climbing, leads to the top.

This section of the cliff, the first part one comes to as the approach path reaches it, is heavily concentrated with excellent routes.   Most notable is the right-facing corner of Gemini, at 5.9 a respectable challenge. That route's outside corner sports another route, Andromeda, which is currently one of the few lines taking advantage of the face-climbing here.

Gemini

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Right End