TCPA climbs a short overhang on good and bad rock over a great landing.

Sit start with a pair of sidepull finger-locks. From there, stand up to a right hand crimp, walk the feet left, set a left heel-toe lock, reach a left hand tooth, and then come around the bulge on bumps and crimpers to gain a mantle and the send.

The Cat Purrs Atop

Smile

Hellava Half Life

Reader of Banned Books

Smile is a solid traverse with good body tension.

Sit start with hands matched in the dimple at the center of the boulder's overhang.  From there, traverse to the right using the slopers and crimps (crux) to gain the jugs at the arête.  From there, walk the feet out right, and follow with the hands using the good sidepulls to rock onto the slab and top out the boulder.

The left food hold used while traversing through the slopers is one of my all-time favorites and likely the key to this problem.

Hellava Half Life traverses perfectly textured slopers to finish up a highly featured arete.

Sit start with hands matched in the dimple. From there, make a big move to the sloper/crimp (crux) out right, continue traversing  right until reaching the arete, then double back up the arete and top it out using the bumps.

Sit start (crux) with an oblique left hand edge and a horizontal right hand edge. From there, set a right heel, gain a pair of edges (this section gets bunched), then continue up the arete to its apex, and top it out using the bumps.

If done as a proper sit start (your butt is the last to leave the ground), I believe it's the crux. Using bicycle foot beta during the initial pull-off helps stop the pull and allows for the heel to be hooked.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sonofabitchinbastard Boulder